ITS Campus, ITS News — Students from the Sepuluh Nopember Institute of Technology (ITS) have once again showcased their creativity through the Pawukon Jewelry Collection, an innovative jewelry collection consisting of necklaces and earrings that combines modern material techniques with ancient Javanese astrological values (Wuku). Through his work, Bhirawa Kusuma Wijaya presents a premium jewelry collection inspired by the Javanese calendar system as a local cultural identity.
Starting from a college assignment, this student from the ITS Industrial Product Design Department (Despro) explained that the Pawukon Jewelry Collection was born from a material-driven design approach . In the project, each student was asked to conduct exploratory research and experiment with different materials, ultimately choosing to explore oxidation techniques to create a blue patina on copper.
The young man from Ponorogo explained that the name Pawukon itself is derived from the ancient Javanese and Balinese calendar system, which is still widely recognized by the local community. He explained that the theme was chosen because it hasn’t been widely featured in modern jewelry designs. “The Western zodiac is often used in jewelry, so we incorporated the ancient Javanese zodiac, native to Indonesia, into jewelry,” he said.
Furthermore, the student, known as Bhirawa, chose the Watugunung Wuku as the primary inspiration for his innovation in this project. This decision arose because it represents his own. “This collection embraces the concept of storytelling , representing a person’s character and life journey,” he explained.
The Watugunung design incorporates three main elements: the Lakuning Rembulan, the Wijaya Kusuma flower, and Sang Hyang Antaboga. The Lakuning Rembulan depicts a sociable and happy personality, the Wijaya Kusuma flower symbolizes growth, and the Sang Hyang Antaboga, shaped like a dragon, represents a passion for innovation and art.
Bhirawa represents these three elements through his innovative jewelry. Sang Hyang Antaboga is embodied in the detail of a crowned dragon’s head made of 18-karat gold. With a high-polished finish , this element accentuates the luxurious shine, symbolizing the spirit of innovation and artistry, while also providing an elegant visual contrast to the jewelry.
In the Wijaya Kusuma floral element, Bhirawa uses freshwater pearls, symbolizing the process of growth. The natural luster of these pearls balances the rustic texture of the copper, creating an elegant yet lightweight and comfortable feel.
Finally, Lakuning Rembulan is visualized through a Dancing Stone with a moissanite diamond . This stone is designed to continuously vibrate with the wearer’s body movements, creating a kinetic effect that symbolizes the dynamic character of the moon and brings happiness.
ITS student Bhirawa Kusuma Wijaya when introducing the Pawukon Jewelry Collection at an exhibition at the ITS Industrial Product Design DepartmentTo create the copper’s distinctive color, he applied the blue patina copper technique through ammonia fuming . This process involves triggering controlled oxidation on the copper surface for 24 hours, followed by drying and finalizing to ensure a safe and comfortable finish.
Interestingly, according to Bhirawa, patina, which is generally considered a material defect, is transformed into a key artistic value. “Patina is often considered material damage, but in this work, it is utilized as an aesthetic element with artistic value,” added the 2023 student.
During the production process, he admitted to facing challenges in color experimentation, ensuring the safety of the material when in contact with skin, and ensuring the accuracy of the design details. The Pawukon development process took one semester, including material research, prototyping, and the handmade production process .
Bhirawa also stated that the ITS Industrial Product Design Department supports the development of this project by providing workspaces, equipment, and exhibitions to introduce students’ work to the public. He hopes Pawukon can be further developed into a commercial product and reach a wider market. “Hopefully, more people will learn about this work, as well as Indonesian culture and the increasingly rare knowledge of the ancient zodiac,” he concluded.
This innovation developed by ITS students aligns with ITS’s commitment to supporting the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly point 8 on Decent Work and Economic Growth through creative industries based on local wisdom, and point 9 on Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure through innovative material techniques. Furthermore, point 11 on Sustainable Cities and Communities through the preservation of Javanese cultural heritage in modern design. (ITS Public Relations)
Reporter: Asher Yedijah Hoesono
Translator: Devinka Mutianeira